Around Ngauruhoe

This is not another account of a nose-to-tail march across Tongariro’s Alpine Crossing, but an alternative off-track adventure avoiding the crowds and visiting some hidden and untouched waypoints encircling Mt Ngauruhoe.

We followed the well-beaten track from Mangatepopo car park to just past Mangatepopo Hut, where we scrambled through hardy tussock to Hardmans Ridge.

Following the ridge, the tussock gives way to scoria, rocky outcrops, wildflowers, and patches of snow. It was June and early winter snowfall had given Tongariro and Ngauruhoe a solid base. The weather was nothing short of spectacular, and the vivid contrast of deep blue skies, pristine white peaks, and green moss underfoot made for very satisfying hiking. From our vantage point, as we negotiated the ridge, a full panorama of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu, and the interconnecting glacial valley, was an inspiring sight.

Tongariro’s summit loomed 300m above, and the gradient became steeper. We decided to take the direct route up a steep tongue of snow. Since it was north-facing, the snow was soft and we made it up without crampons. Peering over the summit ridge, the mountain showcased another vast scene: South Crater dropping away before us, Mt Ngauruhoe standing tall, Mt Ruapehu behind, and the distant snow-capped Ruahine Range on the horizon. Down at the foot of Ngauruhoe; a distinct line of ants marched onward.

As the setting sun cast a pink hue over everything, we prepared our camp further along the Mt Tongariro Summit Route. The temperature dropped and by the time our tent was pitched and dinner was eaten, the sky was dark and we were alone. Looking up at the clear moonless sky, I was astounded by the billions of twinkling stars that encompassed the night sky. The Milky Way cast a bulging band of colour above our tent.

After breaking camp, we dropped down to Central Crater and climbed to a semi-frozen Blue Lake. We then backtracked to the Emerald Lakes and picked up the Tongariro Northern Circuit Track to Oturere Hut. Snow slowly gave way to the barren landscape of volcanic pumice, scoria, sand and ash. In the distance, Oturere Hut came into sight on a flat spot surrounded by tussock and overlooking the Kaimanawa Range.