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A day makes all the difference

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July 2024 Issue

Omanui McKinnon Pass, Fiordland National Park. By David Ruddock

Omanui McKinnon Pass on the Milford Track is a special place to visit during summer, but snow storms can happen at any time of year. Seeing it draped in white is something else again.

The ferry operator warned us to expect high rainfall and cold conditions that would likely result in snow. After an easy hike to Clinton Hut the weather packed in: 300mm of rain fell overnight and the Clinton River overflowed its banks. Although the rain had cleared and the river had subsided by mid-morning, it still meant wading through thigh-deep freezing water on the lower parts of the track. The sights and sounds of a hundred waterfalls along the Clinton Valley more than made up for this discomfort. 

As night fell at Mintaro Hut, snow took the place of hail. Next morning, with sun and clearing skies, the forest resembled a winter wonderland. The track to McKinnon Pass was covered in deep powder and was slow going.

This photo was taken on the Arthur Valley side of the pass, with the jagged peaks of Mt Balloon (1847m) providing a formidable backdrop. 

The track continues past several mountain tarns to McKinnon Pass Shelter, where we found the water tanks frozen. 

It’s a slippery three-hour descent to Dumpling Hut via the steep emergency avalanche track. Along the way, a 1.5hr return side trip to Sutherland Falls – New Zealand’s highest – was worth the effort.

Distance
54.5km
Total Ascent
1800m
Time
Glade wharf to Clinton Hut, 1.5hr; to Mintaro Hut, 7hr; to Dumpling Hut via Sutherland Falls, 8hr; to Sandfly Point, 6hr
Accom.
Clinton Hut (Great Walk, 40 bunks), Mintaro Hut (Great Walk, 40 bunks), Dumpling Hut (Great Walk, 40 bunks)
Access
Lake Te Anau
Map
CB08